Every morning the routing goes awry almost immediately. We are becoming blasé about our direction of cycling. Today we left our accommodation and followed a car going in the wrong direction up a one way street. Strength in numbers we thought. Think again. The car came face to face with a car travelling in the correct direction.
Medieval pilgrims travelled together in groups, passing the time telling stories, drinking and socialising. It was big business for the inn keepers and guides. Wealthy individuals would pay others to do their journey and pray for them. This journey is highlighting all sorts of interesting career opportunities.
Alison had been worried that we are having too much fun as pilgrims, suggesting we travel more frugally. In the spirit of the medieval pilgrims we intend to live it up a little.
Today was all about the climb. Over 2,000 feet. Beautiful scenery that we enjoyed in splendid isolation on the closed route. We are well on the route when I say how quiet it is and we haven’t seen anyone else. Alison says it is unsurprising and mentions the sign. What sign? The road is closed to all traffic. Surely that doesn’t include bicycles? We travel on the worst surfaces so far. Potholes, craters, dirt track, rubble. We have to push in some areas. And then there is the cyclist’s dread. Mud. There was a storm last night and part of the so-called road was a muddy bog. Mud jammed the wheels and my bike and feet disappeared. There is a saying ‘ the Camino will provide’. And it did. At the end of the road was a water fountain with four water outlets. Bike clean again.We arrived five and a half hours later to a magnificent storm. Thunder, lightening and torrential rain. Our bikes are now spotless. Our host was less than enthusiastic about as bringing our bikes into our accommodation. They are chained, like suffragettes to the railings outside in protest. Let’s hope no one here wants a bike that isn’t electric.The Cathedral in Venosa. Closed. No stamp for our Credenziale today.
After 40 miles and two thousand feet of climbing it is time to celebrate. Time to sleep.
One response to “Day 11 Gravina in Puglia to Venosa”
malcolmchoat8206f59a7e
Been following you on the EuroVelo website. This year seems to be the biggest challenge you’ve taken on yet. All of it so far, and it doesn’t get better soon, is classified as partially developed and not signed. That’s apart from one section where you were advised to take public transport (a luxury pilgrims in the day didn’t have).
So the route shown on the map is a statement of intent, rather than reflecting anything on the ground. In effect you aren’t just dealing with the distance, terrain and weather, all to be expected, but also the state of the roads, tracks, paths and building sites you attempt to cycle along, over and through. Did any of this put you off, of course it didn’t, probably the reverse. Which leads us to the question – are you very courageous or just plain bonkers.
The verdict is most likely a bit of both. Don’t worry we love you just as you are and wouldn’t change you in the slightest. Your blogs are eagerly devoured and a year without one is the poorer for it.
Love and puncture free cycling,
Malcolm & Evelyn
PS. We finally saw proof that the e- prefix cannot be applied to your bikes.
Alison and Alison and the art of re-tyrement 
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