• Day 8 Rouen to Muids

    37.7 miles

    Ascent 208 metres Descent 183 metres

    Not quite the boring day we had been hoping for.

    A pleasant morning walking around Rouen and a visit to the Cathedral to get our first stamp in France for our pilgrims passport.

    Getting out of any city on a bike is tricky if you are trying to avoid main roads. An old Michelin route map does not contain sufficient detail and even the technology (or the operator) can let you down.

    As we were muddling our way out we met these two men who were marking the routes for cyclists. In Franglais they told us the route to follow which worked perfectly until we ended up on an industrial site. We went round and round the site admiring the JCBs, pushed down an overgrown path and ended up on a dual carriageway.

    This delayed us about 2 hours before we broke free of Rouen. We pedalled hard and Alison thought a nice ride along the banks of the Seine to find a campsite would be perfect.

    It is not an everyday occurrence when two pensioners on bikes turn up at your restaurant as service is starting asking for a room because everything is closed. The chef was desolée but no room in the inn. He was charming and phoned around to try to find us somewhere to stay.

    Nothing.

    We have pitched our tent in his garden and enjoyed a meal. No wifi or charging but hope to rectify tomorrow. Alison says she has a plan.

    Hoping tomorrow will be boring.

  • Day 7 Mers les Bains to Rouen

    60.5 miles

    Ascent 784 metres Descent 715 metres

    Oops! We made a mistake. It has been pointed out to us that we didn’t cycle through the Battlefields of the Somme as that is too far off our route. But we did of course cycle through the fields of the Baie of the Somme.

    Another dramatic day today.

    We started with a steep climb out of Le Tréport and then an undulating ride (think Seven Sisters) to arrive in Dieppe in time for coffee. The torrential rain started once more and we have become familiar with the bus shelters in Normandy.

    The weather improved and we had a pretty ride to Rouen where we celebrated our arrival with a beer beside the Seine.

    Dinner in the square next to the beautiful Cathedral in the late evening sunlight.

    The drama of the day occurred when I had my passport and cards stolen. Card and passport have been cancelled and we are both fine.

    The result of this is firstly I am not sure how I will be getting back into the country but I am sure the passport office will tell me in due course.

    Secondly I have access to online banking but have to be exceptionally nice to Alison as she is giving me pocket money, dinner money ……………..

    Looking forward to a boring day tomorrow.

  • Day 6

    Berck sur mer to Mers les Bains

    55.5 miles

    Ascent 234 metres. Descent 272 metres

    A challenging start to the day. We woke to dark skies and as soon as the tent was packed away there was a bolt of lightening followed by thunder and then it poured and poured and poured.

    We cycled across the fields of the Baie de Somme soaked to the skin, numb feet in a chill wind while the poppies on the hedgerows bowed their heads with the weight of the rain. We reflected that we had no complaints and how lucky we are as life is indeed a privilege.

    Baie de Somme

    From the Baie de Somme it was a long, slow unrelenting climb up against a heavy headwind and then down to our destination at Mers les Bains where we have treated ourselves to a night in a hotel.

    Tomorrow we leave the comfort of the Eurovelo route 4 and make our way inland with the help of pages torn out of an old Michelin route guide. What could possibly go wrong?
  • Day 5

    Boulogne to Bercke Plage

    34.67 miles

    Gentle ride along the brilliant EV 4 route. Arrived at Etapes where we stopped to look at the military cemetery.

    A moving and poignant visit.
    Today’s question: what would the young men and women who fought and died for a better, fairer and free life think of today’s world?

    A picnic lunch in smart Le Touquet and now at a 5*campsite at Bercke plage where you have to pay to wash your hands.

    On another note supplies are dwindling and we were down to our last liquorice allsort. After a fair and equal division they are all gone. What is to become of us?
  • Day 4

    Escalles to Boulougne

    23.8 miles

    Ascent 380 metres Descent 374 metres

    Last night’s luxurious room for the night.
    Today’s question: Why is no one else camping?

    Today we found the camaraderie of le velo en France as we rode the EV4 route. It was noticeable that everyone was doing the route in the opposite direction to us. What did they know that we didn’t? A headwind!

    Today’s ride was a little shorter than expected as I caught a wheel and did a dramatic turn over the bike. Only grazes and a bruised ego for me but my bike was not so lucky. Bent and broken handle bars and completely unrideable.

    Thanks to Hugo within 20 minutes Yannick from Cycle Passion turned up in his van and took us both back to his shop where he replaced the handle bars and sorted out the bike. What stars they both are. Thank you Hugo for organising it.

    Hugo says I will do anything to stay in a hotel and we have some lovely soft beds for the night.

    Tomorrow onto Le Touquet.

  • Day 3

    Canterbury to Dover

    Calais to Escalles

    32.2 miles plus a ferry crossing

    Ascent 578. Descent 585



    Question of the day. How do you eat your Liquorice Allsorts? Do you peel them, dissect them layer by layer or devour them whole?

    Whatever your preference, we are sending our thanks to Ramesh for providing us with the sweets that kept us entertained and helped us physically and mentally to climb to Dover!

    Had a personal escort out of the Ferry port at Calais. Quite a welcome.

    Stunning beaches at Sangatte

    Two rides plus a crossing and now camping (thanks Lesley) at Escalles.

  • Day 2

    Tunbridge Wells to Canterbury

    49.06 miles

    Ascent 490 metres Descent 599 metres

    Even had time for some relaxation

    Accompanied by Shirley and John today who provided a porter service for our bags, lunch and general encouragement. Thanks to John for the delicious sandwiches and for telling us all about the dangers of rocket. Thank goodness he was there to keep us safe. A lovely ride through the Kent countryside with a great downhill into Canterbury.

    Dinner in Canterbury with Shirley and John where we waved them goodbye. A fab start to our journey.

  • Day 1

    The start of the adventure

    Coulsdon to Bidborough

    31 miles

    608 metres ascent 578 metres descent

    Packed and ready to go

    A beautiful sunny day to start our journey. It took a while to get used to balancing and riding a fully loaded bike.

    I lost Alison after just 6 miles! Decided I didn’t want to do the next 1794 miles on my own so managed to track her down.

    Lovely ride through the Surrey and Kent countryside with plenty of views after a lot of climbing.

    Fantastic welcome at our luxurious B&B in Southborough. Welcomed with tea and cake, wonderful evening meal and we were lucky to be in the presence of an ex Eurovision judge (John) who entertained us with his Eurovision stories. A game of Domino train that ended very satisfactorily for one of the Alisons. Thank you Shirley and John. The best start to our adventure.

  • Alison and Alison and the art of Re-tyrement

    Retirement is not the end of the road. It is the beginning of the highway.

    Three years ago we were planning another cycle and decided the Way of Saint James via the route of the Camino Frances would be just what we were looking for. Then Alison (guess which one) posed the question ‘Why begin at St John-Pied-de-Port? We should start from home’.

    Along came a pandemic and two years later, some planning and a little (very little) training and we are ready to cycle London to Santiago de Compostela.

    Saturday 7th May

    Practising putting up the tent in my garden. Where will we put our bags? It is going to be cosy.

    Sunday 8th May

    Charlotte acting as our trainer and putting us through our paces.

    Friday 11th May

    The Last Supper. A toast to new adventures.