Alison and Alison and the art of re-tyrement

Distance 23.6 miles

Ascent 651 metres Descent 538 metres

It took us a month and 1071 miles and we are now at the start of our route. It would have been quicker by plane but not half as much fun.

As we loaded panniers onto our bicycles this morning a group of 4 other cyclists were preparing to do the same route as us today. We started well before them but within 15 minutes they glided past serenely on their electric bikes.

We stopped at Osterbat to look at the views and get a drink. Beautiful views but no refreshments available.

We made St Jean with jelly legs but within two hours of Christophe’s prediction which we were thrilled with but he has ignored.

Our mystery shopper experience of cycle shops continues. One of my brakes failed today and the mechanic at Maya sports in St Jean Pied de Port sorted the problem within half an hour. Brilliant.

Perhaps Bikegrims is an appropriate term after all. We might have left it a little late to research the route. Apparently the Pyrenees are rather hilly.

Help!

Distance 30.2 miles

Ascent 402 metres Descent 400 metres

Shorter distances but harder work for the next few days as we climb up into the Pyrenees.

We are now on the last page of the Michelin road map and after tomorrow will have to rely solely on Christophe. If we can curb his desire to take us on mountain bike routes all will be well.

Alison is thinking of using them as wallpaper for her downstairs loo and is trying to work out how will she manage to display our route when it is on both sides of a page.

Therapy is ongoing and progress could be slow.

We learned today that we are officially known as Bikegrims. We are not happy. It doesn’t sound very jolly to us.

An early night for the big day tomorrow.

Distance 31.06 miles

Ascent 314 metres Descent 286 metres

We woke up to torrential rain and had a lie in. Lovely. Followed by a marvellous breakfast. Every cloud …..

Did some admin this morning as the forecast was better for later in the day. Had another successful trip to Decathlon followed by a second trip to the Cathedral and managed to get a stamp in our passports.

Quelle horreur!

Lynn you are so right. Page 156 of the Michelin road guide is missing. How would we get to Urt?

The signs for the EV3 had also disappeared but Christophe came to the rescue. We had a relatively gentle ride whilst the rain changed from a heavy drizzle to a downpour.

We decided against camping and tried the local Auberge. No room at the inn. Deja Vue.

Onto the Etche Zahar campsite and asked to stay in one of the many empty cabines or mobile homes. Not for one night said Monsieur. Disappointing.

Instead he gave us a bed for the night in a fixed pitched tent. Anything to get out of the rain.

We had more celebrating to do this evening. Campsite restaurant and cocktail bar are closed so Alison did a quick dash in the rain to Carrefour for emergency supplies.

Two reasons to celebrate.

Firstly Christophe tells us that we are now Level 4 cyclists. We will be professionals soon. Secondly we have cycled over 1,000 miles in less than four weeks since the start of our journey. Who said it was a holiday?

Another sumptuous meal tonight. Chilli rice and Alison has bought some rocket as she thinks we need the iron.

Tomorrow will be interesting.

Distance 45.2 miles

Ascent 394 metres Descent 441 metres

Unbelievably Christophe has designated us as Level 3 cyclists today. Two levels in two days. That is extreme.

Today’s route tested so many of our cycle skills. Christophe took us down three mountain bike routes, a cycle path on the side of a dual carriage way, round an industrial estate and through the middle of a newly built but not on the map housing estate. He was determined to keep us off the road but we passed the test.

Dax is well known for it’s thermal treatments. We fit right in with our bruised and fatigued bodies and thought we would spoil ourselves with a treatment. By the time we arrived at 5.00pm the thermal spas were all closed.

Next stop the Cathedral to get our passports stamped. No success. Only available alternate Thursdays in June. It’s not easy being a Pilgrim.

In the absence of anything else to do we went to a bar to celebrate becoming Level 3 cyclists.

Bonne nuit

Distance 52.8 miles

Ascent 603 metres Descent 636 metres

We are thrilled to announce that we have been awarded Level 2 cyclist status by Christophe. I am wondering if my Cycling Proficiency Badge will give us any bonus points.

We are not sure how this occurred as Christophe’s predicted journey time for today was 6.15 hours and we did it in a little over 10 hours. Perhaps we were awarded points for perseverance.

As we climbed up from the campsite and lake the temperature also climbed and we were pleased to have the shade of the pine trees.

We followed Christophe and the EV3 route but both gave confusing signals and sent us on the mountain bike route.

It is getting hotter and the climbs are harder work.

Eventually arrived at our hotel to find door locked, shutters down and no-one around. Phoned the owner (without Hugo’s help) and we are in. Website says hotel has a restaurant but of course it is closed.

In town this evening everything is closed as it is the Whitsun holiday. We managed to find the one restaurant open in Mont de Marsan to drink to our Level 2 status.

Happy days.

Distance 41.6 miles

Ascent 653 metres Descent 583 metres

Christophe had designed a wonderful route for us today. We started on the EV 3 cycling along the banks of a canal off the Garonne and then on through rural France via a Rembrandt route, finally climbing up to the scented pine forests of the Lot et Garonne.

Have pitched our tent at a campsite by a lake. No restaurant but has a bar. We arrived early and made the most of it with a refreshing dip in the lake followed by a drink on the terrace.

A sachet of rice heated in the microwave and a chocolate biscuit for supper while we planned the next few days cycling.

We are living it up.

Distance 52 miles

Ascent 530 metres Descent 464 metres

Another night, another storm. Thunder, lightening and torrential rain. The compact nature of our tent means that it is our panniers or us that stay dry. No contest.

A lovely ride through vineyards, orchards and along the Garonne. No opportunity to recharge our devices and battery packs in the last three days so have had to be judicious in their use.

We have found another use for Christophe. Alison was finding it difficult to find her way around the campsite. A little help from Christophe and she can go direct to the shower block.

We are blending in nicely with the locals. Today as we cycled through La Raole a young man stopped to ask if we knew the way to the prison. We can’t decide whether we look like honest and trustworthy individuals or ex-cons.

Arrived at the hotel and the receptionist told us the nearest restaurant was 3km away. So we walked round the corner to the all you can eat Chinese Buffet. Perfect.

We have mosquito bites to add to the bumps, cuts and bruises. They are driving me mad. I am getting desperate and considering the hot spoon technique.

Google it.

Distance 49.8 miles

Ascent 455 Descent 552

We like a plan and today we resolved to leave early before it was too hot.

We hadn’t taken into account the events of the night. We woke in the early hours to sheet lightening, thunder, torrential rain and our little tent shaking in the wind. It went on and on and in the morning there was a lake next to the tent.

We didn’t float away and inside everything was dry. We are very impressed with the tent but it took a while to dry it so we left later than we would have liked.

We are now on the Eurovelo 3 route and decided to give Christophe the day off and follow the signs. The signs disappeared and contrite we turned Christophe on. He was agitated that we were 6km off the route but took us back on course.

We turned Christophe off and very quickly got lost again. He was a bit more grumpy this time but got us to our destination.

Tomorrow we are going off-piste and we will be hanging on his every word.

We have upgraded to 4 star accommodation with a pool and a restaurant that is open. Food and a chance to try the local produce.

Happy days.

Distance 43.7 miles

Ascent 570 metres Descent 535 metres

We started the day on the number 5 bus where we went to Fleac to pick up our bikes.

Julien at Bike Master had done a wonderful job on Alison’s bike and it now has a new brake and gear cable. We are ready for the Pyrenees.

It has come to our attention that our cycling equipment falls well below the European standard. It appears to be de rigour to have 4 matching panniers, a cycle trailer, flags and bunting.

How do the french glide elegantly past us with all that weight while we puff and pant up the hills? Electric bikes of course.

We are the Morris minor to their Bugatti. We like to think that we are environmentally sustainable with our vintage gear and pedal power.

A hot day with the temperature at 29 degrees. A cooling breeze when we cycle but we leak from every pore when we stop.

Arrived in Chevanceaux at the Municipal camping. We share the whole site with one other. Restaurants in town closed as they are only open at the weekend (not Sundays). This is France.

The midges are biting. They had a better supper than us.

Good night

11.1 miles walking

Up before 7am and in Bordeaux by 9.00am. We took great delight in confounding Christophe by getting to Bordeaux well before the projected arrival time. It is a doddle by train.

Today I had an appointment with the British Consulate in Bordeaux to collect my emergency travel document. What to wear to a Consulate when you have just one spare change of clothing? Tricky.

Nothing is simple. The ceiling in the Consulate has collapsed, the building evacuated and I was instructed to go to the Chamber of Commerce to collect my documents.

The security guard and reception assistant at the Chamber of Commerce denied any knowledge of any appointments and told me I had to go to the Consulate. We remonstrated in Franglais, the receptionist was adamant.

A female assistant took pity on us and told us to take a seat. Eventually someone from the Consulate turned up with my document.

Strolled along to visit the Cathedral. But this is France and it is closed for two hours for lunch.

Instead we did what we do best and visited a bike shop and Decathlon.

Back in Angouleme and a visit to the Cathedral, another stamp in our passport and a beer in the square.

Now all we have to do tomorrow is to find the bike shop where we left our bikes yesterday. That shouldn’t be a problem, should it?