Alison and Alison and the art of re-tyrement

Cycling from London to Spain

  • Re-tyrement without Alison

    Lands End to John O’Groats

    Day 1 Home to Lands End

    I wasn’t going to do it but I couldn’t help myself. The events of today require another blog post.

    The start of a three week coast to coast jaunt from Lands End to John O’Groats. On this occasion without Alison as she has done the ride previously. It doesn’t feel quite the same. Who will make my early morning cup of tea?

    Instead I have my companions of John (JR), John (JP), Jackie plus five others on the trip. No one has brought a water heater with them.

    A guided and portered trip staying in hotels. All organised so looking forward to a trip without a hitch.

    Woke at 6.00am to a message from Trainline informing me that my 10.04 train to Penzance had been cancelled. Left home in time to catch the 11.04 to learn the 10.04 had been reinstated. Too late to catch the original train so bought a ticket for the later one.

    And so did everyone else who was due to travel on the earlier train. JR caught the 10.04 and had 6 seats to himself. The 11.04 was full to bursting with passengers from the cancelled/reinstated train. Very unhappy passengers. Arguments ensued as to who needs a seat most – young children or pensioners? Now that is a conundrum.

    Departure delayed and train held up on route so arrived in Penzance almost two hours later than originally planned. Met by Radu our guide and transported in the van to the Lands End hotel.

    Bikes sorted, introductions made, trip briefing completed followed by dinner with the group.

    The adventure begins.

  • Day 47 and beyond. Santiago de Compostela to home.

    A couple of days to spend exploring Santiago and some retail therapy. We didn’t have to worry about how much weight we can carry on our bikes. Just how much weight we could take on the plane.

    In the Cathedral we went to a mass and watched the famous tradition of the swinging of the world’s largest botafumeiro . An incense burner that was used to make the pilgrims smell sweeter. They knew we were coming.
    Streets of Santiago

    Our planning for the return journey was successful. We picked up the boxed bicycles and one of the technicians took us to the airport. He chatted away in Spanish. We chatted back in a combination of Spanish, French and English amid a lot of laughter.

    Alison has become almost fluent thanks to watching First Dates in Spanish. We are felices jubiladas (happy retirees) as well as bicygrinos.

    Navigating through the airport terminal was a challenge.

    The last few days have been eventful so that a couple of days have missed a post.

    Firstly I developed an infection that necessitated a trip to the local hospital. Alison organised it marvellously, the Spanish system was excellent and I came out with a stack of medication and the infection is improving.

    Began to feel more unwell on the journey home and a Covid test was positive. Alison is fine and remains Covid free.

    Matron Rossiter is doing an excellent job looking after me and I am not allowed to do anything.

    Housekeeper Rossiter washed the sleeping bags. She said squeezing out the water from the bags was like milking cows. She would know.
    Head gardener Rossiter has been tackling the garden which has become very overgrown and given all the plants a much needed drink.

    And that is it. We have had a wonderful adventure, met many interesting people, travelled through vastly different countryside, enjoyed taking part in local traditions and had a lot of fun. And we did it all ourselves. Perhaps not quite. We had a bit of help from Christophe, Yannick, Amélie, Julien, Pierre Sam, José, Monsieur Ober, Oliveira and of course all of you.

    The journey of a lifetime?

    This may be the end of the road on this occasion but the journey continues. We have a plan ……

    Buen Camino

  • Day 46 Santiago de Compostela to Finisterre

    Coach party

    We are converts. Why puff and pant up hills, sweat in the sun and get soaked to the skin when you can be taken to your destination in air conditioned luxury? Coach is the way to travel.

    We had a lively band of travel companions on board. A group of four mountain bike cyclists recognised us as the two with the heavily laden bikes who overtook them on the hills into Santiago. We didn’t recognise them – we were too exhausted to recognise anyone. It appears we have reached mythical status with our cycling efforts and enjoyed their enthusiastic applause.

    We went to Finisterre – the end of the world. Alison is sitting on a stone that legend holds was the bottom of a stone boat.
    Legend also says that if you crawl through this hole, round and through it seven times you will be healed of your physical problems. They didn’t teach us that method in our training.
    The original pilgrims would arrive at the end of the world, take off all their clothes and burn them. This marked a new beginning and they would put on new clothes. We don’t have any new clothes but we are looking forward to freshly laundered clothing when we get home.
    The end of the world.

    An exhausting day. Climbing hills is easier.

    Good night.

  • Day 45 Santiago de Compostela

    Walking 11 miles

    Temperature 19 degrees

    A very busy day.

    We went to the Pilgrim office early to collect our Compostelas. A proud moment.

    A lot of time was spent working out how to get home. Only one flight out of Santiago to the UK this week and only two ferries a week from Santander. The ferries are fully booked until next week so we will fly home. All options require us to dismantle and box the bikes.

    How many Alison’s does it need to box two bikes? None hopefully.

    Our bikes are at Bicicletas Oliveira and if we understood them correctly they will box our bikes and take us plus bikes to the airport on Thursday. Could be interesting if we misunderstood the plan.

    Alison was looking forward to our mini cruise from Santander to Portsmouth. To make up for the disappointment we have booked a one day coach tour to the coast tomorrow. We are pensioners after all.

    We wandered through the streets of Santiago in the sunshine.
    One of several monasteries in Santiago.
    This evening we sat on the terrace of a parador enjoying a drink and this view.

    We had dinner with Utrecht woman (no relation) tonight. She is a volunteer at the Pilgrim’s office and has invited us for coffee on Wednesday to meet the Dutch team. So much to fit in before we go home.

    Excellent news. Alison has been able to replace the water heater and we are enjoying a nice cup of tea. No fuses blown. The old one is consigned to the bin.

    Another early start tomorrow. We have to leave early for our coach trip. It was easier being a bicygrinos.

    Good night.

  • Day 44 Melide to Santiago de Compostela

    Distance 37 miles

    Ascent 865 metres Descent 1056 metres

    Temperature 16 degrees

    A pattern is developing at the start of the day. I get up and switch on the lights. The lights fuse. The water heater hasn’t been out of the bag for several days. We have developed strange powers.

    We cycle to the end of the road and Utrecht man cycles by. As usual he is surprised to see us and we empathise over our mutual experiences of the climb to O Cebreiro. We will all arrive in Santiago today but at very different times.

    We did it! We have reached our destination.

    In six weeks we have cycled 1600 miles. Our journey followed a route that has been used for over a thousand years. We are thrilled.

    Christophe has declared us to be Level 14 status cyclists. We are overwhelmed.

    Thank you all for your messages of encouragement and support throughout our journey. We feel as though you have been on route with us. We have enjoyed your comments, you have made us laugh and we couldn’t have done it without you.

    We have been out on the town to celebrate and after a meal and a few drinks we are planning our next challenge.

    How do we get home?

    To be continued…………

  • Day 43 Portomarín to Melide

    Distance 25.5 miles

    Ascent 777 metres Descent 728 metres

    Temperature 13 degrees

    A relaxed start to the day as we had another lie in and heard the walkers leaving early. The Spanish grid is safe. We had coffee in the nearby cafe.

    As we set off on the climb out of Portomarín we spied a number of cyclists in bright yellow up in front. Slowly we gained ground and picked them off one by one until we reached the summit. Brilliant.

    Along the route there are white arrows and helpful comments on the cycle lane. We didn’t see any buses but there were quite a lot of cars.
    A good route from Christophe today but he did manage to take us to a motorway as yet unbuilt.

    Another day, another lunch in a bus shelter. This one was made entirely from metal. We agreed the cover from the rain outweighed any lightening risks.

    And then the sun came out and we had a photo taken with another pilgrim.

    ‘Buen Camino’ is the greeting we hear everyday. Tomorrow it should indeed be Buen Camino

    Good night.

    I

  • Day 42 Fonfria to Portomarín

    Distance 32.5 miles

    Ascent 676 metres Descent 1387 metres

    Woke at 7.00am to low cloud, rain, wind and temperature of 8 degrees. We decided to have a leisurely start but without the early morning cup of tea.

    Alison has said the water heater is now for emergencies only but am not quite sure what constitutes an emergency.

    The rain stopped and we started with a nice downhill ride all the way to Samos.

    We had a guided tour of the Monosterio de San Julián de Samos. It was destroyed by fire in 1951 and has been rebuilt. It is a working monastery today.
    It is famous for the modern murals on its walls.

    We arrive in Sarria to closed roads, flashing lights , police guiding us in and marching bands. What a welcome we were getting.

    It is Saint John the Baptist’s day. A national holiday and Spain is closed for the day.
    Lots of pilgrims on the route now. Climbing the steps up to the town of Portomarín.

    We have been giving a lot of thought to our equipment and what we would change for future trips. A good piece of advice has been that all items should have at least two uses. That got us thinking.

    It has rained a lot. The rain cover for our bar bags has a further two uses.
    Helmet protection and shower cap. That makes the cut next time.

    So much potential in our equipment. Too excited to sleep thinking about it.

    Good night.

  • Day 41 Ponferrada to Fonfria

    Distance 38 miles

    Ascent 1714 metres Descent 963 metres

    Temperature 15 degrees

    Water heater update. No tea in our room this morning but breakfast in the Hostal cafe instead.

    Today was all about the climb. A gentle start out of Ponferrada.
    Hospital in Villafranca built in the 13th century to give shelter and aid to Pilgrims. Two laden bikes having a rest before the hard work began.
    On the way up.

    We are mountaineers. We followed Christophe’s route which took us up gradients so steep they were unrideable even for Level 12 cyclists. We spent a lot of time pushing uphill as the weather deteriorated.

    One of two summits. The second was higher but raining too hard to get a photo.
    You don’t look this glamorous if you have cycled to the top of a mountain in the rain.
    This is the reality of a big climb in the rain.

    Arriba! Abajo! Al centro! Al dentro! Communal dinner in the Hostal and we have been doing shots of Queimada with the youngsters here. There is no stopping us now.

    Surely it will be all downhill tomorrow.

    Good night.

  • Day 40 Astorga to Ponferrada

    Distance 35.7 miles

    Ascent 814 metres Descent 1168 metres

    Temperature 20 degrees

    A lot more cyclists on the Camino now and we are enjoying exchanging stories as we go along. This morning two fellow bicygrinos staying at our hotel were mending a puncture first thing. A disappointing start to the day for them.

    This morning we climbed and climbed up Santa Colomba de Samoza and beyond.
    We must be getting better as we managed to talk and climb at the same time.
    Just as we reached the top the clouds came over and it started to rain.
    We have reached the highest point on the Camino. The climbing is not finished just yet and we are stealing ourselves for a bigger and longer but climb tomorrow that doesn’t go quite so high.

    Then a long downhill into Ponferrada when we tested our new brakes to the limit.

    Culture again this afternoon. The view from the ramparts of Castillo de los Templarios in Ponferrada. This was extended by the Knights Templar in the 13th Century to defend the road to Santiago and to protect pilgrims.

    We are in awe. Our efforts are nothing in comparison to Hugo’s and his colleagues. Yesterday Hugo and three fellow submariners swam the English Channel. All that effort just to help us with our french language inadequacies. Does he know we are in Spain now?

    Many congratulations to all the team. It is a fantastic achievement.

    If all the strikes and travel difficulties continue we may need a lift home. We promise we wouldn’t cause any trouble on a submarine.

    Water heating element update. We have fused the lights twice in our Hostal bedroom this evening whilst trying to make a cup of tea. Third time lucky. Alison has a plan of course.

    Will we get our early morning cup of tea? Update tomorrow.

    Good night.

  • Day 39 León to Astorga

    Distance 34.3 miles

    Ascent 392 metres Descent 350 metres

    Temperature 19 degrees

    Today started with a bang. Alison fused the lights in our Hostal bedroom whilst making us an early morning cup of tea.

    This well used item has made cups of tea in rooms all around the world and never caused a problem until today. Should this follow the panniers and the Kathmandu bag?
    Mainly flat today with tomorrow’s challenge looming over us.

    We made slow progress today as much of the route was on the walker’s unmade road. The bikes are unsteady on this surface and we need to concentrate on staying upright.

    The 300 metre medieval bridge at Hospital d’Órbigo.

    It had to be done. A visit to a bike shop in Spain. We are both having problems with our brakes and as we have big climbs tomorrow we needed to get them sorted. José at Liébana Bike repaired both bikes.

    They weren’t the only thing needing sorting. Alison’s 16 year old cycle shoes finally fell apart today.
    Alison was planning to tape her shoe together. But here she is with José, the bike shop owner in her new shoes. She left the old ones with him. She is thinking about buying some new socks.
    More culture. The Episcopal palace in Astorga built by Gaudí.

    Brakes and shoes sorted. Tyres pumped up and we are ready for the big climb tomorrow.

    Level 11 cyclists need their rest.

    Goodnight.